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It's squash season and my favourite season, not least for all the curries and other hearty meals of fall. Today's Rajasthani sautéed dish is a regular in my kitchen, and the blend of ginger, chilli and jaggery gives it a wonderful balance of flavour. The biryani, on the other hand, is packed with whole spices, basmati and clarified butter, which give so much more taste to the layers of grains and produce.

Mushroom and Squash Biryani

National curry week starts on October 6, so how perfect to celebrate than with a flavorful, comforting, all-in-one-pot layered rice dish? If you like, prepare the spiced vegetable mixture element ahead of time and layer all components on the occasion you want to serve.

Preparation 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Yields 4

For the squash and mushroom gravy
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

Biryani assembly
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, as accompaniments

Begin by preparing the curry base. Melt the clarified butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan on a moderate flame, add the cumin seeds, bay and clove spices, and fry for a brief moment. Stir in the onion slices and cook, frequently turning, for 30-35 minutes, until softened. When the onions start to brown, remove half to a plate and reserve (you'll use them later during the layering).

Add the green chillies and ginger to the remaining onions, fry for a brief period, then mix in the tomato paste, chilli powder, turmeric powder and coriander powder, and fry for a minute. Reduce to a gentle flame, blend in the yogurt and simmer for a couple of minutes.

Add the pumpkin pieces and mushrooms, toss to cover in the spices, then cook for three minutes. Pour in the liquid, and season to taste. Heat until boiling, then lower the temperature, place lid and cook gently for about twenty minutes, stirring once halfway to make sure no sticking to the bottom of the pot. Garnish with fresh cilantro, then take off the stove.

Preheat the oven to moderately hot temperature. Rinse the rice, then place it in a saucepan with a quart of water and the bay leaves, cardamom pods and seasoning. Bring to a boil, simmer for around ten minutes, until partially cooked, then strain.

For assembling the layered dish, place a tablespoon of melted ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Ladle in half the spiced vegetables, then top that with some the rice. Add half the saffron infusion, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and spice blend, then top with the caramelized onions. Layer with the rest of curry mixture, then spoon on the leftover rice. Top with the rest of clarified butter, saffron water, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and spice mix.

Cover with parchment, place lid securely, then bake on the center rack of the oven for about fifteen minutes, so all the flavours soak into the rice. Remove of the heat, leave to rest, still covered, for 10 minutes, then lift off the cover and present with yogurt sauce and salad.

Rajasthani Achari Kaddu (Pumpkin with Pickling Spices Sauté)

The Hindi term "achari" refers to seasoning a preparation using preserving spices, and the combination contains mustard, fennel seeds, fenugreek, cumin, hing and nigella, but their use extends beyond in preserved foods. This mixture also features in various types of curries and sautéed preparations, such as this one.

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 min
Yields 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
750g squash flesh, or pumpkin, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Put the mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds and fennel seeds in a mortar, roughly grind, then set aside. Heat the cooking oil in a large frying pan or kadhai on a moderate flame. Introduce the crushed spices and the hing, and fry, mixing, for a brief moment. Mix in the ginger, fry for a minute, then add the squash, chilli and turmeric, and fry, tossing, for several additional minutes.

Add a small amount water to the pot, season with seasoning to taste and bring to a boil. Place lid, turn down the heat, and simmer for about twenty minutes, mixing midway through. Mix in the palm sugar, breaking up chunks a bit, then incorporate the dried mango, mix thoroughly and serve warm with chapatis or leavened bread.